‘20’ by Maison Martin Margiela

We have all heard of an Illusionist: one who makes us see things that we never thought were possible or the magician who conjures the unbelievable to be reality. Could Margiela be a fashion illusionist?

Margiela’s ‘20’ exhibition left me spellbound as the designer’s first show runs at Somerset House. Margiela, a brand who influences fashion; incorporates crazy shapes with a sense of mystery behind each piece, creations worthy of an exhibition space. The Margiela philosophy is the apex of cool and simple. The faceless label united with Diesel in 2002, which lead to a broader market without losing its integrity.

Walking into a clean open space, the large screen drew my attention, looping his outrageous shows with ‘faceless’ models, no front row and bizarre locations. As you go deep into the winding stairs, I got a sense of eeriness like a Margiela show, with reflections and shadows creating an addictive atmosphere where you are locked in a strange world.

The Margiela ethos was captured in a glass case with various show invites. Each one was an exclusive tiny gem, precious to those excluded. They were printed on plates, cds, a jewellery box, embroidered fabrics and even on cigarette rolling paper.

Visiting Somerset House, home of fashion week and seeing Margiela’s work at this venue made me reflect on my own work as a young fashion designer and relate to Margiela’s designs in a retrospective way. As I left, down the twisting staircase, the dynamic tailoring and the mysticism of Margiela’s collections were imbedded in my mind. I could see how Margiela has become a success. His work is not only practical but an art form with depth behind each design. This pure sense of passion and true identity behind ones work is key to a designer. To have your own style, taking risks and having people judge your work and chose whether to like or hate it. If Margiela can do it then so can I. That’s being a designer, that’s being an Illusionist, making the unbelievable reality.

Anisha Parmar

Visit: http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/fashion/maison_martin_margiela_20/ to get more information on the exhibition.